Abel Tasman National Park
Named after the first European to sight New Zealand, this park on the South Island has a beautiful rocky coastline edged by rain forest and offers many opportunities for tramping, sea kayaking, boating and simply relaxing on the beach. Inland are caves and Maori rock carvings. Nelson is a good base for visiting the park. Local companies offer day trips in the park and on the water, as well as shuttle service to Marahau, where the Abel Tasman Coast Track begins. Marahau is also a good place to rent sea kayaks. All kinds of birds (including penguins), dolphins and seals can usually be seen in and around Tasman Bay. You can also visit Tonga Island’s marine reserve and seal colony. 170 mi/280 km northwest of Christchurch.
Arthur’s Pass National Park
This park on the South Island has magnificent mountain scenery, which you can experience on several short walks or full-day hikes. But most people just pass through the park on their way between the two coasts. The views are impressive whether you’re traveling by car on Highway 73 or on the Trans-Alpine Express train between Christchurch and Greymouth. Be aware that Arthur’s Pass itself is sometimes closed to cars because of bad winter weather - on our last trip it was closed for a couple of days in April (autumn in the Southern Hemisphere) after an early snowstorm. During the colder months, you’ll probably have to take the train. Otherwise, driving is a better option because the train enters a tunnel at the top of the pass - you miss some of the area’s best scenery. The visitors center at Arthur’s Pass Village has a small museum, which offers weather and trail information. Among the shorter walks, both the Devil’s Punchbowl Falls and Bridal Veil Tracks lead to spectacular waterfalls. Arthur’s Pass Village is 95 mi/155 km northwest of Christchurch by road.
Auckland
Auckland is New Zealand’s biggest and most cosmopolitan city. The only problem is that its urban credentials - a flourishing cultural life, abundant commerce, an interesting mix of people - are often upstaged by its breathtaking geography: seven green volcanoes overlooking a broad harbor and a seemingly endless shoreline.
But Auckland’s residents appreciate the city’s two-sided personality: They view nature as one of life’s pleasures rather than a barrier to development, and the city’s population of more than a million is dispersed into neighborhoods of manageable size. All in all, Auckland is a gateway to nature and outdoor adventure, with fine dining and culture there for the asking, too.
Bay of Islands
Containing about 150 islands scattered off the North Island, the Bay of Islands merits a three- to four-day visit. We like the area’s fabulous beaches, sport fishing, scuba diving and kauri trees (they’re enormous). The village of Waitangi (not to be confused with the town on the Chatham Islands) has a carved Maori meeting lodge, a shipwreck museum, the world’s largest war canoe (made from the trunks of two kauri trees) and Treaty House, where the British and Maoris signed a peace treaty in 1840. The pleasant agricultural town of Kerikeri, on the northwestern side of the bay, also has some interesting historical sites, including a replica of a Maori village. If you’re interested in game fishing, head for Russell (stop by the information office on the pier to arrange fishing trips). The town has its fair share of sights, too, including the Captain Cook Museum, Pompallier House and Christ Church. Paihia has first-rate beaches and great opportunities for sea kayaking.
We highly recommend taking an island cruise. Our favorite is the “Cream Trip,” which used to pick up dairy products from the islands (hence the name) but now is mostly for sightseeing and mail delivery. It takes a full day but is well worth it. At the very least, take a half-day cruise. If your schedule permits, take a day tour to Cape Reinga, the northernmost tip of the North Island, where you can see the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea merge. Buses leave from Kaitaia for impressive “90-mile Beach,” a vast beach preserve (but still smaller than its name indicates - it’s only 55 mi/88 km). Equally impressive are the enormous sand dunes seen from the walking trail through Te Paki Reserve. Swim-with-dolphins excursions are also very popular in the area. Paihia is 150 mi/240 km north of Auckland.
Chatham Islands
If you’re in New Zealand and you want to get away from it all, you can’t get much farther than the Chatham Islands - a three-hour flight from Wellington. Of the 10 islands, only Chatham and Pitt are populated, but they all offer good beaches, scenic trails, bird watching, scuba diving (shipwrecks to investigate) and good fishing. Ecotours are available if you want to check out the rare flora and fauna of the islands. A small museum in Waitangi (the islands’ only town - not to be confused with the village of the same name in the Bay of Islands) displays artifacts of the Moriori, early Polynesian settlers who once populated these islands. Use Waitangi as a base for trips to the smaller islands. 500 mi/800 km southeast of Wellington.
Christchurch
Christchurch is a graceful city that values its culture and heritage. Founded in 1850 as a Church of England colony, the city still retains a distinctly English flavor. These days, it’s a picturesque mix of the old, the quasi-old and the somewhat new. Expansive parks lend Christchurch the nickname “The Garden City.” The Avon River curves through the city and its parks. You can drift along the river in a punt (a shallow-bottomed boat propelled by a long pole), enjoy a picnic lunch on its banks or just have a nice walk.
The best-known landmark is Christchurch Cathedral, which stands in the heart of the city (climb the spire for a view). Cathedral Square is a lively spot, especially at midday, when a local character called the Wizard speaks and performs his antics. In the evening, open-air concerts are sometimes held there.
At the end of Worcester Street is the Canterbury Museum (New Zealand history and Antarctic discovery exhibits) and the Botanic Gardens - both of which are part of huge Hagley Park. The Arts Centre is also at the end of Worcester Street. Craftspeople and artists occupy the stone buildings and courtyards that were originally part of the University of Canterbury.
A tram covers about an eight-square-block route, from the cathedral to the Canterbury Museum and Arts Centre. But distances in central Christchurch aren’t very far, so you can easily walk the same route. If time permits, visit the International Antarctic Centre near the airport or take a gondola ride up to Mt. Cavendish (you can hike back down if you’re in the mood).
For a good day trip, head to Akaroa, a town on the Banks Peninsula that’s as French in atmosphere as Christchurch is English. Jet-boat trips through the Waimakariri Gorge are a thrill, and in winter there’s good skiing nearby on Mt. Hutt and other mountains. But if you’re headed for Queenstown, you’ll find better outdoor and adventure activities there. Christchurch is 300 mi/480 km northeast of Queenstown by road.
Coromandel Peninsula
On the North Island, across the Firth of Thames east of Auckland, the rugged Coromandel Peninsula offers spectacular scenery. The drive along the coast winds past bays, beaches and green fields edged with cliffs that plunge into the water. Trips into the interior bush let visitors get a look at gold-mine ruins, waterfalls, ancient kauri trees, and plenty of tree ferns and birds.
Whitianga, on the northeast coast, makes a good base for exploring the area. Don’t miss beautiful Cathedral Cove and the hot-water beach (warmed by springs that bubble hot water up through the sand at low tide), both near Hahei. Take the unpaved 309 Road between Whitianga and the town of Coromandel (it’s about an hour’s drive) to see the peninsula’s interior, complete with waterfalls and a grove of kauri trees. Pauanui is a favorite holiday town among Auckland’s wealthy set. When driving around, keep in mind that while distances may appear short on a map, it takes more time than you expect to travel the peninsula’s small, winding roads. About 70 mi/115 km east of Auckland by road.
Dunedin
Distinctly Scottish in feel, with stone buildings and Victorian houses, Dunedin lies on the southeast coast of South Island. The city claims New Zealand’s only castle - Larnach Castle, which overlooks Otago Harbour. You’ll also find many fine museums and galleries. Other diversions include guided tours through the Speights Brewery, Wilson’s whiskey distillery, the Cadbury Chocolate factory, the 130-year-old Botanical Gardens and Olveston House (home of a wealthy merchant at the turn of the 20th century). Be sure to check out the railway station: Built in 1908 from basalt, it’s one of the most photographed rail terminals in the world. Nature lovers will enjoy the nearby Otago Peninsula, home to royal albatrosses (viewing season is from late November to late August) and yellow-eyed penguins. 225 mi/360 km southwest of Christchurch.
Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier
The most famous glaciers in New Zealand are located on the South Island, on the western side of the Southern Alps within Westland National Park. Both are worth seeing (15 mi/25 km separate the two), but if your time is limited, plan to see at least one. You can walk over the moraine and right up to the edge of the glaciers, but we recommend that you take a guided walk on the glaciers. Or, if you feel like splurging, take a flightseeing tour by helicopter or plane (helicopters land on the glaciers and let you out to walk around). Weather conditions can affect the flightseeing tours at any time of year, but winter weather can also make getting to the glaciers overland from Christchurch or Queenstown difficult - mountain passes may be closed. About 315 mi/510 km west of Christchurch via Arthur’s Pass.
Hamilton
Located about halfway between Auckland and Rotorua, Hamilton is home to the Waikato Museum and Art Gallery (a good collection of Maori art) and Hamilton Gardens (100 different gardens, each with its own theme). The city’s zoo boasts a large walk-through aviary, and it includes some of New Zealand’s rarest, indigenous species. You can unwind at the nearby Waingaro Hot Springs, which offers three thermal pools, private spas and a waterslide. Ngaruawahia, the country’s Maori capital, lies just northwest of Hamilton. There you can visit Queen Te Arikinui Dame Te Atairangikaahu’s residence and a Maori cultural complex. 70 mi/115 km south of Auckland.
Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park
Consisting of 47 islands in the Hauraki Gulf, this park is divided into inner islands (recreation) and outer islands (nature reserves). Several can be visited as day trips from Auckland. Kawau, site of the mansion of an early governor, Sir George Gray, has pleasant walks. You can get there via ferry from Sandspit (28 mi/45 km north of Auckland).
Motutapu has pleasant meadows dotted with grazing sheep, while Rangitoto offers great walks and secluded beaches in the shadow of a volcanic peak more than 800 ft/240 m high. You can take a train part way up the summit, which still has remnants of World War II fortifications. Rangitoto and Motutapu, linked by a bridge, can be reached by ferry from Auckland.
Waiheke Island is popular for its leisure activities (horseback riding and water sports), beaches and wineries. It also has a museum and World War II gun emplacements. Waiheke can be reached by air or by boat from Auckland. Motuihe Island, also near Auckland, is known for beaches, boating and walking. 20 mi/35 km east of Auckland.
Kaikoura
If you’re interested in whales or dolphins, you should plan a trip to Kaikoura on the South Island’s northeast coast. In fact, marine mammals helped put this once-quiet fishing village on the map. A large number of whale and dolphin species (some quite rare and found only in the Southern Hemisphere) can be seen there. Whale-watching boats are equipped with underwater microphones, so the success rate for sightings is quite high. (Sperm whales are seen almost year-round.) There are companies in town that will take you out into the ocean to swim with wild dolphins and seals or to dive with sharks. A number of nice trails begin near town, the most popular being a half-day coastal walk along the peninsula, which winds past stunning limestone formations and several seal colonies. 115 mi/185 km north of Christchurch.
Lake Taupo
This beautiful area of lakes and mountains on the North Island is an important site of geothermal activity. Among the best places to see the vents are at Waiotopu and Orakeikorako Thermal Reserves (both about halfway between Lake Taupo and Rotorua). At Taupo city, visit the Wairakei Geothermal Power Station, admire the awesome Huka Falls or walk around Craters of the Moon park. You can take a cruise on Lake Taupo (it’s renowned for trout fishing) or a scenic overflight of Mt. Tongariro. Tongariro National Park, New Zealand’s oldest and most popular national park, has three active volcanoes. In winter you can ski there, and in summer the ski lifts are taken over by hikers. Taupo is about 175 mi/280 km southeast of Auckland by road.
Milford Sound
In spite of its remote location on the South Island and its wet climate (roughly 200 in/550 cm of rain a year), Milford Sound is New Zealand’s premier natural attraction. (In summer, it’s visited by 50 or more tour buses a day.) Although it’s called a sound, it’s really a glacier-carved fjord, with sheer mountain cliffs rising up on both sides. Waterfalls spill down the rocks - there can be hundreds after a rain. Postcard-perfect Mitre Peak dominates the view if it’s not covered in clouds.
Nearly all visitors to Milford Sound see it on a two-hour cruise that takes you the length of the fjord and back. (Overnight cruises are also offered.) We recommend that you opt for one of the smaller boats: They can maneuver closer to the waterfalls and wildlife. Some operators now offer kayaking and diving trips in the sound.
When it comes to getting to and from Milford Sound, there are several options. Day trips by bus can be booked from Te Anau (about seven hours round-trip) or Queenstown (12 hours round-trip). More expensive, but much quicker, are flights in small planes from Queenstown. You can also take the bus in and fly out. (We’ve done this, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our last trip.) If driving yourself, plan on at least two days for the trip from Queenstown. Of course, you can also walk to Milford Sound by way of the famous Milford Track. 185 mi/300 km west of Queenstown by road.
Mt. Cook National Park
Most of New Zealand’s tallest mountains are in this South Island park, including the country’s highest, Mt. Cook (12,345 ft/3,763 m). From Mt. Cook Village there are several long and short walks that bring you close to forests, mountains and glaciers. The Tasman Glacier is the largest of several glaciers in the park, but it’s not as appealing to the eye as others in New Zealand, such as the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Scenic flights in helicopters and planes are offered from Mt. Cook Airport and other nearby airports. They’re an excellent (but expensive) way to view the mountain scenery - some of them land on glaciers. Be aware that weather conditions change quickly in the park, so flightseeing trips are often grounded. 200 mi/320 km southwest of Christchurch.
Napier
Rebuilt after an earthquake in the early 1930s, this small town on the North Island is famous for its beautiful art-deco buildings. The art museum sponsors guided tours of the architecture on Sunday afternoons. The National Aquarium is one of the best in the Southern Hemisphere - in addition to turtles, seahorses, sharks and other fish, the aquarium has rare tuatara lizards. There are a number of other tourist attractions, including a miniature village (Lilliput), Marineland of New Zealand (dolphin and seal shows) and the Nocturnal Wildlife Centre.
Be sure to pick up an Art Trail brochure from the tourist information office, which lists more than 40 home studios, workshops and galleries of local artists. While in the area, you may want to go hot-air ballooning over the Hawke’s Bay countryside or go wine tasting at some of the the country’s best vineyards. Bird enthusiasts should plan to visit nearby Cape Kidnapper Gannet Reserve: Gannets (related to pelicans) nest there from October to April. 205 mi/335 km northeast of Wellington.
Nelson
New Zealanders flock to Nelson because it has some of the South Island’s best beaches and sunniest weather. As a result, this town offers a number of nice hotels and restaurants. Hundreds of artists and craftspeople live in the area, so it’s also a good place to buy pottery and other crafts, including Maori carvings, jewelry and weavings. Sights include the Nelson Provincial Museum (Maori art, photography), Botanical Reserve (great views from Botanical Hill) and Founders Park (historic buildings). Nelson is also the nearest city to Abel Tasman National Park and a departure point for trips there. The surrounding region is noted for its good trout fishing and its wineries. And you’ll want to visit the Moutere River eels - they are so tame they will feed out of your hand! 270 mi/440 km north of Christchurch by road.
Picton
This quiet town is the South Island’s port for ferries from Wellington on the North Island. (The ferry ride takes between two and three hours.) Along the waterfront, visitors will find the Picton Museum (exhibits about the area’s whaling history) and the restored ship Edwin Fox (a 19th-century wooden vessel).
The sheltered waters of the Marlborough Sound are good for sailing, fishing and kayaking, as well as exploring area marine reserves. Boat trips on the sound are easily arranged in town. We had fun at the small bay near Picton, watching regattas of boats - some sailboats, some powerboats, some rowboats.
You can rent a vehicle or take a minibus tour to see the Marlborough wine country to the south near Blenheim. You can see whale migrations along the coast throughout the year. Hikers and walkers will like the breathtaking views along the Queen Charlotte Track, which stretches from Ship Cove to Anakiwa. 215 mi/350 km north of Christchurch by road.
Queenstown
If outdoor adventure is your travel goal, Queenstown, on the South Island, is the place to go. Scores of well-equipped and experienced tour operators there do a good job of organizing activities for you, and the scenic beauty of the surroundings will satisfy even idle vacationers. But before strapping on your bungee cord, take the Skyline Gondola above Queenstown for a wonderful view of Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables mountain range. (The Remarkables are particularly beautiful at sunset.) Before heading back down, try the luge track a couple of times.
For even bigger thrills, try bungee jumping. Once you’ve done that, you’ll be ready for other aerial adventures such as hang gliding or parapenting (a maneuverable parachute). You have choices when it comes to jet boating: Trips are available on the Shotover, Kawarau and Dart Rivers. The Shotover River has narrow canyons, so it probably offers the greatest thrill value. You can also go whitewater rafting on the Shotover and Kawarau Rivers. Possibilities for canoeing and kayaking are abundant as well. For less of a white-knuckle experience, take a walk through Queenstown Gardens or a cruise on the lake on the steamboat Earnslaw (it’s been operating since 1912). Fishing, horseback riding, golf and snow skiing are other options.
For a day trip, drive to Arrowtown (an old gold-mining camp with an excellent museum and several greenstone factories), Macetown (a mining ghost town, accessible only by foot, bike or horse), or Glenorchy (at the head of Lake Wakatipu). 300 mi/480 km southwest of Christchurch.
Rotorua
Rotorua, on the North Island, sits on top of the most active thermal spots in the country (which explains why the town reeks of sulfur). Visit the boiling mud pots and geysers at the Whakarewarewa and Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Reserves or take mineral baths and marinate in mud packs at one of the many spas around town. (Boiling mud pots make interesting hazards at Rotorua Golf Club, but we suggest you take the penalty stroke.)
Rotorua’s water organ (a fantastic water display with music), history museum and art gallery are worth a look. (The art gallery building was once a spa and is a site in itself.) The city is also a center of Maori culture: Attend a Maori hangi (feast and concert) and tour the Ohinemutu Maori village. Near the main entrance to Whakarewarewa is the Maori Arts and Craft Institute, a replica of a traditional Maori village (wood-carving and weaving demonstrations). Other attractions include a skyride (great views), the Agrodome (sheep-shearing displays and shows), a “hovershuttle” (small hovercraft that make trips across Lake Rotoiti) and two large mazes (one of hedges, the other an incredible three-dimensional wooden maze that has to be seen to be believed).
Outside of town are the Tarawera Craters (a dormant volcano) and Te Wairoa village, sort of a Maori Pompeii: The village was covered in volcanic ash during the 1886 eruption of Mt. Tarawera. It has since been partially excavated. 145 mi/235 km southeast of Auckland.
Stewart Island
Naturalists will be drawn to Stewart Island, off the southern tip of the South Island. This sparsely populated and isolated island is one of the country’s best-kept secrets. It’s primarily a haven for seals and abundant bird species (including albatrosses, kiwis and several kinds of penguins). The island also has salmon farms, wind-sculpted forests, lots of sand dunes and beautiful beaches (more than 992 mi/1,600 km of coastline). Most of the facilities are at Halfmoon Bay, a town on the northeastern part of the island. Be aware that accommodations tend to be rudimentary. Stewart Island is also a starting point for trips to the bird sanctuary on nearby Ulva Island. To reach Stewart Island, you can take a catamaran from Invercargill or arrive by plane. 30 mi/50 km south of Invercargill.
Te Anau
This pretty town on Lake Te Anau (the largest lake on the South Island) is more or less halfway between Milford Sound and Queenstown. It’s also a gateway to Fiordland National Park and the starting point for some of New Zealand’s most famous hiking trails (called “tracks”). Weather permitting, floatplane trips into the park depart from the lake. If feats of engineering fascinate you, take a guided tour of the huge, underground, hydroelectric Manapouri Power Station. Trips to Doubtful Sound, larger and more remote than Milford Sound, also depart from Manapouri. Te Anau is 105 mi/170 km southwest of Queenstown.
Waitomo Caves
For an unforgettable, eerie adventure, visit the three Waitomo Caves south of Hamilton on the North Island. Those are not stalactites hanging from the ceiling - they’re thousands of luminescent glowworms. Ride the tour boats through the Waitomo Cave, visit the Museum of Caves, or (if you’re feeling adventurous) try rappelling or “black-water” rafting in the Ruakuri Cave. Rafters don wet suits and miner’s helmets to float through the glowworm caves and down a small waterfall. The more understated Aranui Cave does have thousands of tiny stalactites. 45 mi/75 km south of Hamilton.
Wellington
The country’s capital, located on the North Island, is rarely visited, and those who do go seldom stay more than a day. It’s a pity - for one thing, the city has outstanding architecture. Be sure to take the cable-car ride up Kelburn Hill to visit the magnificent botanical gardens (waterfalls, orchids and roses). Other attractions include the Te Papa National Museum (good Maori exhibits, art, live exhibitions) and the Old Government Building (one of the oldest wooden structures south of the equator). If you’ve rented a car, drive along breathtaking Marine Drive (allow several hours). Views of the city and harbor are best from Mt. Victoria and Tinakori Hill. The city also offers extensive shopping, especially along the Golden Mile of Lambton Quay and Willis Street.
North of Wellington on Highway 1, just past Paraparaumu, is the Southward Car Museum. The vast site has a large collection of vintage fire engines, motorcycles and cars (including one owned by Marlene Dietrich). Golfers will want to find time to tee off at Paraparaumu Beach Golf Club, a true links course that is arguably the country’s finest.
Nature lovers should catch a boat from Paraparaumu for the Kapiti Island Nature Reserve. In addition to its amazing bird sanctuary (home to some very rare species), the reserve has a couple of challenging hiking trails. Access to the island is strictly controlled by the Department of Conservation, so it’s best to make advance arrangements if you want to visit. Wellington is 410 mi/660 km south of Auckland.
Whangarei
This town on the North Island is a good base for exploring the island’s northern region. Whangarei Heads offers beautiful secluded beaches - Whale Bay, Matapouri and Ocean Beach are some of the best. For spectacular waterfalls, head to Whangarei Falls (3 mi/5 km outside of town) or to nearby Reed Memorial Kauri Park, which also has a wide variety of native trees. For some of New Zealand’s best scuba diving, visit Poor Knights Island Marine Reserve. Whangarei is the gateway to the ancient forests of the Kauri Coast, the best of which is Waipoua Forest, home to the 2,000-year-old, 164-ft/51-m kauri tree called Tane Mahuta. The town itself has a pretty harbor, arts and crafts shops (don’t miss the Kauri Clock Factory), a renowned teahouse and the fascinating Clampham Clock Museum. 105 mi/170 km north of Auckland.